This is the part where you usually will spend most of your time dealing with, This connects with the front spring / Amature bar and the settings of this part will make the distance between the amature bar and the coils longer or shorter. Shorter distance is a faster up and down movement, longer distance is a slower movement. Liners can have this mounted in a close to 90 degree angle while sharers usually have much less. This can be changed to a more electric leading metal such as silver.
This is the part that is in constant contact with the contact screw. Usually made of steel and have longer once for shaders and shorter for liner machines.
This part is the part that connects with the machine and usually nothing you need to think too much about. Can be changed to a longer or shorter one depending on how far out from the machine you want the amature bar to be. But usually this is regulated by the front spring.
This part connects with the coils WHEN the electricity passes trough. Its important that the armature bar has a small small distance from the coils if you want the bar and needle to move. The machine works like a electric circle, and if the circle is complete then no need for the armature bar to move. This can be found in different designs but usually the same length and fundamental shape
Front Binding Post
The front binding post you will play with a lot during you career, this changes the position and angle of the contact screw.
This part makes the front spring get its angle. Without it you will not get the sloping angle of the front spring and your machine will not work
Top Hat Grommet
This is just a part that helps the needle to become steady on the amature bar, if you dont use this you risking the needle to move around and even to jump off the amature bar and cause the machine to stop working until the needle is fixed again.
Clip Cord Entrance
Just as the name, here you put the clipcords and add electricity to the machine.
Rear Binding Post
This fixes the coils to the clipcord power from the power supplies. Something wrong here and you can get a sting of electricity from your machine or the coils will simply not get its power and the machine will not run.
The yoke regulates the height of the coils, usually this is standard to fit the machine but if you build your own you can end up with coils that is to short for a big frame and you need to put a higher Yoke to make the coils connect to the armature bar.
Its here the power in the machine comes, the more wraps of copper wire, the more power the coils have and this is measured in voltage 8, 10 and 12 is the normal voltage on the machines.
This is a electronic component that regulates the coils
For the tubes or tips, this sometimes can be too small for some tubes and can be needed to be replaced after repeated use.